Four Seasons: Interview with Chef Masashi of Ito
Interview with Chef Masashi of Ito
Ito, an omakase-style restaurant located at 75 Barclay St. in Tribeca, has been making waves in New York’s sushi scene since opening its doors in 2022. Founded by long-time friends turned partners–Michelin Star chef Masa Ito and chef Kevin Kim, the restaurant boasts an inventive interpretation on traditional sushi that highlights seasonal fish from Japan throughout each course.
Originally scheduled to open in March 2020, Ito’s arrival this past spring was highly anticipated by locals as well as those familiar with chef Masa’s culinary achievements. Born in Hokkaido Japan, Masa’s display of creativity and determination led him to become a chef by the age of 19. His pursuit of excellence was quickly recognized and he was soon headhunted to become the chef for Sushi Zo Downtown Los Angeles in 2012. Four years later, Masa made the move to NYC as the chef for Sushi Zo’s third location, where he received the honor of a Michelin Star during his first year. Now, guests can experience the culmination of Masa’s expertise and passion when visiting Ito.
The concierge team at The Four Seasons New York Downtown spoke with chef Masa Ito about his professional journey, inspirations, and the intention behind each element of the restaurant.
What first inspired you to pursue a culinary path?
Watching my Grandfather work at his sushi restaurant in Hokkaido inspired me to become a chef. I was fascinated by everything he did, from prepping to making a perfectly shaped nigiri. He let me try sushi when I was around four and I just fell in love. During my adolescent years, I was more into sports but realized in my late teens I wanted to pursue a career as a chef and started by working inside Japanese restaurant kitchens.
What is a new ingredient you’re excited to incorporate into your menu?
We recently started to source Winter White Truffles and Wild Caught Winter Yellowtail from Hokkaido. Season just started for both and it's been great so far.
Ito’s architecture embodies a well-kept secret, featuring a windowless, inconspicuous exterior and minimalist interior–how does this influence the dining experience?
We wanted to create a hidden secretive spot where guests can relax and focus on enjoying our food so we didn’t want any windows. We chose our interior to be minimalist because that's Kevin’s and my personal preference. We are serious when it comes to the food we serve, but a traditional quiet and somewhat tense ambience isn’t us.
What is it about omakase dining that makes it such a unique experience?
Omakase is a unique dining experience because the chef gets to curate the whole experience and serves the courses in the order which we believe is best. We do a lot of R&D with seasonal appetizers and only serve what's in peak season, so the menu may change at any time. Fish may slightly change on a day to day basis depending on what we source from Japan's fish market.
We do ask for food allergies and dietary restrictions to every guest beforehand and do our best to accommodate.
How do you choose which ingredients to use?
Sourcing fish/ingredients in peak season from the best region and our relationship with our buyer in Japan is most important. We sometimes switch regions where we source certain fish depending on weather and catch-of-the-day information we get from our buyer in Japan.
With your experience in both traditional and innovative Japanese cuisine, where does Ito’s interpretation of omakase fall?
We’re a mix of both. We keep our nigiri very simple and traditional so guests can enjoy the natural flavors of the fish. The sushi rice and sauces are created to enhance the flavors of the fish. We like to play around and incorporate seasonal premium ingredients for a twist like black/white truffles (whichever is in season) and caviar. We’re constantly thinking of ways to enhance our omakase experience.
What is the most important element of omakase cuisine?
Everything. Seasonality and freshness for a well-balanced course. Being able to engage with customers is a unique element with Omakase. We want our guests to leave feeling full and wanting to come back again.
How does the intimate 16-person counter at Ito impact the atmosphere? The atmosphere is different each night depending on the crowd.
10- What’s one tip you’d like to give guests who dine at Ito?
Ask us anything. We love when guests engage with us and ask questions. Be adventurous and try something you may not have enjoyed in the past or are hesitant to try. You may end up finding a new favorite!
What’s the most rewarding part about being a chef?
The most rewarding part of being an omakase chef in particular is that we get to directly engage with the guests. It's always a great feeling when first time guests become familiar faces. I've met a lot of great people that I may have never crossed paths with if I wasn’t an omakase chef.
For those looking to escape the buzzing New York streets and immerse themselves in an exceptional and intimate dining experience, reserve your spot at Ito’s counter.
